DFI? The Turbos will work with the stock Tuned-Port Injection (just make
sure it flows enough fuel).

150HP....? Try an extra 250 at least (305 cid should make 450 - 500 HP
with 6 psig boost).

Plumbing will be the bitch. Mount the turbos on either side of the motor
in front above the exhaust manifolds & route the exhaust back down. You
want the inlet duct as short as possible. Gonna have the find some place
the put the intercooler....

Good luck.

Toen Starkweather - '72 P.O.S. Camaro - ESP

        I will try and scan a pic for you, if you think you can use it, it's yours
!  Or if not tell me mor or less what size/model you are looking for and I
will keep a look out for it. I cruise the junk yards on after school on
occasions.

 Hope I could help some, and didn't blab too much !!!

Keep us all posted on your progress, if it works out for you, I can see it
in my near future !!!

* Mauro Giambruno *
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI A4, Jet Stage II, 160°, KYB shocks, MSD 6A, Accel
Supercoil, MSD 8.5 Superconductor wires, Edelbrock Cat-back & TES Headers.
16" IROC-Z rims finally ON !
Best time 16.09@85.68

> I just bought this book, along with "Turbochargers" by Hugh MacInnes.
> The Corky Bell book is excellent. I'm working on a twin turbo set up for
> my IROC, so I'm trying to learn as much as possible before I go ahead
> and blow the car ;)

So I take it you are on the DIYEFI list as well?  Sounds like a fun
project.  Definatly a powerful car if it works right!  Hope you drop
that compression ratio down! :) 13psi..14 psi..15 psi... BOOM!

Steve N.

>boost to 6 psi since I don't think the stock lower end can take more
>than 450 hp anyways. I assume I'll need larger injectors and a bigger

My 1985 TransAm threw its first rod while on the dyno, peaking at 441 HP,
with all sorts of evil go-fast goodies.  The second rod popped somewhere in
that range as well, but it was on a track so I didn't have the accuracy of
the Dyno to tell me where it was blowing up.  The memory tach said "5900 RPM"

I'm just passing along some info so you know your guess of 450 is right on
the money!

Frederic Breitwieser

Find your project very interesting..

Mind is to run the auxiliary fueling from
a paxton through the ecm..

Have done a bit of work with gm ecms #165 and #730

The maf runs out of range at about 255 gms/sec mass flow
So above 370 HP gross you no longer have fuel control..
True an fmd can do the job but this is not great control..

Anyway the alternative is the two bar sensor with
the #730 and I have done some work with this..

Anyways if interest email me

gl:peter

Is T-304 SS a light weight stainless steel tubing?  I used tubing found at
the electrical contractors warehouse.  It seems to be slightly lighter then
exhaust pipe, cost about $9 for a 18" 90degree bend, the matching pipe is
really cheap.  It is lite weight so I had trouble welding (I'm not that good
yet) it up.
My preference would to have an aluminum piping to move the hot gases, but
don't know where to find it.  Does anyone know where I can buy aluminum
piping?  My 300ZX is using 2 1/8" piping, but my next project will be using
a larger diameter pipe (the intercooler is going to be huge!).

Paul

I noticed you said you had the turbo maps.  I'd be quite interested
to get a copy.  It seems they are hard to come by (a secret?)

Thanks for any assistance.
Best of luck with your project, hope to hear more about it.

-kelly murray  kem@franz.com

Todd King wrote:
>      my own T-type) that live with totally stock v6 blocks and bottom ends
>      well into the tens (23-28 psi boost, 550-650 hp).
 
True, but you don't have 9.5:1 compression with iron heads :p

Well yes, I do have ported factory iron heads with a "big" 1.77" int valve
installed. People assume alot of things about the GN's that are not generally
true, like they all have al. heads to go fast, or have to have twins, or the
fast ones have nitrous, or they have v8's in 'em (which alot of "experts" tell
me about my own car :-)... It's just not necessary which is my point about
simplifying things with a single turbo. You could go just as quick with it and
save yourself alot of pain. And the point of my boost statement is not the
actual boost number but the power level. IMO your motor can live at the 600 hp
level for 1/4 mi passes if care is taken to not detonate. The 231" v6 does it
(with a cast, but rolled fillet crank), why not yours? If it detonates then
there is no practical buildup available to handle the stress... It'll break
somewhere, guaranteed.
 
>      Again, *don't* let
>      it detonate; I trust that the IROC's have some sort of detonation
>      detection that you can tap a beeper into(?).
 
There is the regular GM knock sensor. When the computer detects a
voltage (or is it the other way around?) it retards the timing. How
would you rig this up to a warning light or beeper? I'd like to know
when its going off instead of being blissfully ignorant.

It's just a digital signal; when the ESC module thinks knock is
occurring it pulls the ESC line low (10v down to 0v) briefly. Easy
enough to connect a beeper device to that. This is on the GN's, don't
know about the other GM setups.
 
>      stock MAF should work fine; maybe remove one of the screens (if there
>      are two like in a GN MAF).
 
I've removed both screens, and also cut the fins off inside the MAF
(TPIS claims 750 CFM compared to 520 stock)

Usually this causes idle problems; did it with yours?
 
>      to tweak the PE tables, starting rich (safe) and working your way
>      down.
 
What are the PE tables? I've heard it mentioned a few times on the DIY
list... How can I change them? I assume it's only playing with
pulsewidth vs rpms with the MAF?

PE tables are the power enrichment tables. PE mode is entered near wot.
I don't know how you would change them on your car if you don't have
any of the eprom cal info.
 
>      once you start flowing alot of air. Another thing, you can greatly
>      simplify things (and save alot of coin) by going with a single turbo
>      setup; in fact twins are sort of "out of style" with the fast v6 crowd
>      thanks to the tremendous progress made recently with compressor and
>      exhaust side choices. A big single from the GN stack, like say a TE63
>      (I run this one) or TE70 (I hear that several 5.0's run this one) with
>      an .82 exh side would be excellent for you to below the 10.50 level.
>      Also, see the new book by Corky Bell on turbocharging ("Maximum
>      Boost"). It's a pretty good one. Good luck, keep us posted, and hope
>      this helps.
 
I finished reading Corky Bell's book last week. It was great. Now I'm
into Hugh MacInnes's book "Turbocharging" :) I think the twins wouldn't
be that tough to mount. The intercooler would be in front of the
radiator (w/ a few inches air space).

She'll run much warmer with the front mount IC, so I'm sure you have
plans to address this.

I'm planning on welding two intercoolers to a common plenum in the
middle with the two tubes from the compressor on a top corner. The main
tube after the intercooler will wrap up the back side of the camaros
radiator right into the throttlebody. My flow should be around 620 CFM
at 6 psi with my 305, but once I get a real engine (383) at 15 psi

Hey- I run with a 231" v6- you have more of a "real engine" there than
you think! :-) I could make that 305 run low 10's to high 9's reliably
by applying what we've learned hands on from the GN's...

, it will be about 1050 CFM. With the twins, I can have two smaller
(medium-T4?) turbos satisfy it for now, instead of one large turbo. I'm
not pushing that much boost, so at the lower pressure ratios, the bigger
one wouldn't benefit as much either. What do you think about using two
Talon turbos? That should be economical and also flow enough. I don't
need a small A/R though since I have plenty of torque down low as it is.
I'm thinking of about 1, 1.2? Thanks for your insight.

So what is the whole driving point for twins vs a single? Why are you
convinced that two will necessarily be better than one? Again, I see
that attitudes are changing towards twins; there is still alot of
romance (and thus sales appeal) about them but they are not necessary to
perform over the top. I'm not trying to put down your choice, I just
want to make sure you are fully aware of the current situation before
laying down the time, money and effort. I've sort of been "on the front
lines" for awhile now; maybe you have not, I don't know. There is
something enlightening about watching your peer's 3500 lb GN run 10.20's
at 130+ mph for a full season on a factory style 231" v6 shortblock,
ported factory iron heads, factory computer, single turbo, AC in place,
etc. I can also personally vouch for the fact that a single will work
extremely well, and some of the "theorists" like C Bell are sort of
supporting it in their latest books. Hey, ask diy_efi list member
talltom. I gave him a ride a few months ago after discovering that he
lived in Portland (Ore) too; he was noticaebly "startled" when the
quiet, mild mannered Regal spun the Mickey T slicks into 3rd gear after
a standing start ;-)  But anyway, I'm sure your car will ultimately go
gangbusters and please the heck out of you, especially after doing so
much of it yourself. Enjoy! I plan to start a v8 turbo project soon
myself, aimimg for a mid 9 sec turbo/intercooled/efi small block v8 in a
68 SS RS Camaro, on a mild Comp 268H style camshaft...

Todd

Andris,
        Hey, Cool web Page. I currently don't have any parts to help you out
with but thought I'd share some pictures with you of my own TT project.
The car is an 85 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe with a 351W, 2 T03'S, and a C-4
transmission. I built it completely over a summer in my basement/garage
during college (Penn State) and total invested was well under 1000
bucks. Best quarter mile time for the car was 11.82 @ 117 MPH using
11-12 psi boost. The T-bird has since been totaled but the motor is now
living under the hood of an 83 Mercury Capri. It is reciving a charge
cooler and some more boost.

Have Fun!!!!

Mike Sitar

> Nice pics :) I've got a few of those already also (burned up an old set
> of Hoosiers before I mounted the Kumho's) Did the T03's flow enough? I
> was looking at the compressor chart, and seemed to think it'd be too
> small. Where did you get the blowers? I was also considering getting
> junkyard turbos from the Eclipse or Talon. Do you have a homepage? I'd
> like to add it to my links :)
>
        The turbos are off of the 85-86 turbo coupes. They are o3's with .63
exhaust and .60 compressor housings, I don't have a clue if they are
enough or not. I have never had a map for them. But they work well, I
would love to have time to throw a thermocouple in the inlet and outlet
of the compressor and calculate a quick %eff but just haven't had time.
The motor is basically a completely stock 351W with 8.0 CR and a
performer intake with a holly 600 carb, I turn the motor to about
4500-5000 RPM. Full boost is developed by about 2600 RPM. Under boost
fuel enrichment is provided by a single injector, and seperate high
pressure fuel system. Weight of the car with me in it and a full tank of
fuel (which is how I run it at the track) is about 3900.  I'm fairly
confident the turbo's are adequate for this application, but I don't
know about the eclipse/talon units. The more serious t03 would be the
units off of the Buick GN. We will be changing the compressor sections
of our 03's to the GN units sometime in the future.
        Sorry no homepage.

Mike

When running 25# into an sbc you will lift the cylinder heads off of the
block because you are putting the small head studs into their plastic
range. You can't change their E value so you just need to increase their
area.

You need to run much bigger head studs and definately O-ring the block
if you want reliability and high boost pressures.

If you have any questions call R & E Racing in Lancaster CA. They have
been building turbo charged race cars and street cars for many years and
can answer any questions you may have.

I have friends who worked for R & E and we worked together at LA County
Raceway and Willow Springs Raceway on all sorts of project cars so I
trust their abilities and concepts.

Mike

I built a custom single turbo 1968 Mustang Fastback.  I've got a 1968
Mustang Fastback that I did like a GT-350 Shelby.  Have
all the fiberglass, '65 T-bird lights...and a BOSS 302 Block/SVO Forged
Crank/5.5" Stroker Crower Forged 4340 Sportsman rods/Custom Ground Comp
Cams Roller Cam/Turbocharged/DFI-Accel Fuel Injected/Intercooled.  I did
a lot of experimentation with different types of induction and finally
am happy with the DFI-Accel computer & set-up.  I learned a lot along
the way.  Designed and had built my own upper EFI manifold, using a 302
Truck EFI lower & flange.  The 302 Truck EFI lower manifold is what the
Saleen/Vortech shoot-out series manifold uses...huge ports, then you
port them bigger!  Using MSD 6A ignition box, Jacobs energy coil, Jacobs
energy core wires, Ford Thin-film computer controlled distributor...

My fuel system is #8 Braided Steel Lines, Twin Bosch Fuel Injection
Pumps (586's), 36lb/hr matched SVO injectors, 1/2" billet fuel rails,
Vortech Super FMU regulator.  Gas Tank has a welded in sump to feed both
fuel pumps from different holes.

My comments on your parts list:

You may want more than 1 fuel pump and 30# injectors.  Also, the way you
are building it is sort of "ass-backwards".  Pardon my french.  Meaning
that with the high compression pistons in there now, you will really be
limited on your boost!  If I was doing it, I'd start with a good bottom
end...that 4 bolt main 350 block the forged crank & rods and low 7:1 or
8:1 compression pistons.
How much thought have you put into the special headers necessary?  This
can be BUCK$!  I spent $1500 on welding/fabrication and $700 on mandrel
bent 304 Stainless Steel tubing.  Plus, this all has to fit into a car,
so you need to custom fit it into your Z28.  We built the headers on a
engine out of the car on a stand, painstakingly measuring the dimensions
allowable in the Mustang's engine bay.  What about boost control?  What
kind of wastegates?  What about your compressor bypasses?  Is one
intercooler going to do it, or will you need two?  The cam is very
important to a turbo car, as is the exhaust pulse to the turbos.  I hope
you have got a bunch of cash, because this is going to be spendy.

Also, I'd add a GTech Pro Meter to test HP/Speed gains.  Time on a
DynoJet Dyno to tune your DFI.  Think about your tranny, turbos do a LOT
better with automatics!

Email me back if you want more info/comments.

Brent Soo Hoo
brent_soo_hoo@gar.com

> > You may want more than 1 fuel pump and 30# injectors.
>
> What is the rating on your pumps? The pump I've got ordered can do 50
> gph at 90 psi, and 70 gph at 40 psi, so I'm not too worried about that.
>
> >  Also, the way you
> > are building it is sort of "ass-backwards".  Pardon my french.  Meaning
> > that with the high compression pistons in there now, you will really be
> > limited on your boost!
>
> Yeah, I know... I'm trying to work with what I have. I would love to go
> all out right now and build a 383 4 bolt forged low comp blower motor,
> but the $$$ is not there while I'm at school. Once I graduate, it'll be
> a different story :) I might even do it later on in the summer,
> depending on how things are... I should be able to run 8 psi intercooled
> on my 9.2:1 motor. I've got a knock sensor, so I can play with the
> timing, w/o breaking the motor immediately also...
>
> > How much thought have you put into the special headers necessary?  This
> > can be BUCK$!  I spent $1500 on welding/fabrication and $700 on mandrel
> > bent 304 Stainless Steel tubing.
>
> Ouch! I was planning on building the exhaust out of steel weldels
> initially. They are fairly easy to weld (which I am learning to do) and
> pretty economical. The tubung alone cost $700? That seems a bit out of
> line...

Ouch is right!  I'd avoid the mild steel weldels (what is a weldel?!) at
all costs!  The reason that turbos usually use cast iron or stainless
steel is because of the heat durability.  These things run hot, and mild
steel breaks down.  304 Stainless steel u-bends are not cheap, something
like $40 each...and you go through quite a few making a complete set of
headers!  Here's a solution to think about...can you get some stock type
"shorties" and turn them around backwards...then just fabricate the
hookups to feed the turbo and the down pipes.  If you used a stock item,
then when it wore out, you could just buy another.  Also, I've got Swain
Ceramic Wrap on mine, either do that or get your headers coated with
ceramic.  This is important to keep heat in the headers, and not in your
engine compartment...plus it aids the scavenging effect of exhaust gas
out of the engine.

>
> > Plus, this all has to fit into a car,
> > so you need to custom fit it into your Z28.  We built the headers on a
> > engine out of the car on a stand, painstakingly measuring the dimensions
> > allowable in the Mustang's engine bay.
>
> Yeah. I'll be fabricating them with the engine still in, and all
> accessories removed. I'll mock them up first with some PVC most likely,
> and see how it goes from there...
>
I think this will be overly hard to do...I suggest you just make
measurements and do it as I suggest; on an engine stand. Leave your
engine in the car to make measurements and build it on a junkyard 350 (4
bolt mains, forged crank...:)  Fabricators hate to work in cramped
spaces, plus it makes test fitting things a royal pain in the ass.
 

> >  What about boost control?  What
> > kind of wastegates?  What about your compressor bypasses?
>
> It all depends on what turbos I end up using. If they have a wastegate
> built in, then I'll use that. I would rather use remote wastegates, but
> economy is the issue again. If I do change over to a DFI system, which
> uses speed density, I'll add a blowoff valve before the throttlebody
> also...

You get what you pay for with turbos.  Sizing and proper matching to
engine size/capability is crucial.  I believe that no integral wastegate
turbo is as efficient as a remote wastegated one.  I've got a
Turbonetics 60-1, but they carefully chose the A/R ratio and impeller
trim with me.  Also, something that will work with your 305 might not
have enough wind to work with a 350/383.  This is important.  See above
comments about boost control...

>
> > Is one
> > intercooler going to do it, or will you need two?
>
> I'm most likely going to use 2 cores, which would be welded with a
> plenum in the middle. The air exit from the plenum would then go to the
> throttlebody.

What size cores?  Again, you don't want to create inefficiency.  They
must be large enough to support the volume passing through them.  Read
this, don't use some junkyard 4 cyl. intercooler where a V8 is being
used with twin turbos.  Good intercoolers are efficient in terms of
pressure drop & temp. drop...and good ICs cost $$$.
 

>
> > The cam is very important to a turbo car, as is the exhaust pulse to the turbos.
>
> I'm using the stock cam, which has a decent lobe separation (114, I
> think...) It is on the conservative side, but should work pretty well in
> a turbo motor.
>
> > I hope
> > you have got a bunch of cash, because this is going to be spendy.
>
> Absolutely not! :) I think I'll be able to do it for under $1500,
> relying on takeoff turbos and intercoolers. We'll see how everything
> goes. Wish me luck!

I find this hard to believe.  Shit, I spent $1500 on my turbo
alone...granted, I wasn't trying to do it on the cheap.  I'd like to see
how much $$$ you actually do spend...also keep track of your "donated"
items and services.
 

>
> > Also, I'd add a GTech Pro Meter to test HP/Speed gains.  Time on a
> > DynoJet Dyno to tune your DFI.  Think about your tranny, turbos do a LOT
> > better with automatics!
>
> A friend has a G-tech, and HMS Motorsports has donated dynotime. I'm
> headed out there saturday to get a baseline of the car right now, before
> the turbos...
>
> Thanks for the help :) Where do you live, BTW?

Portland, Oregon.  I can appreciate the complexity of what you are
trying to do...nobody had much help for me to design a turbo system for
my 1968 Mustang.  I learned a lot as I went, and am still learning.  I'd
be glad to give you the benefit of what I've experienced.  Let me know
of any questions you have.  Call me if you want...

Brian MacKinnon, BSME - Purdue University, 1990
Engineering Contractor for Nuclear Power Utilities
brian.mackinnon@cplc.com
'86 Buick Regal T-Type
'68 SS396 Camaro
'90 Suzuki GSXR 1100
'95 Mastercraft Pro Star 190 Tournament Ski Boat (LT-1 Powered <G>)

Twin turbo, huh?  Tell ya what, if you find somebody to do that job for
something resembling a reasonable price, let me know.  My LS1 might have to
get that treatment at some point in the future. :)

Rob

http://www.tufts.edu/as/engdept/

Good luck
____________________________________________________________________________
Prof. Peter Y. Wong
Mechanical Engineering Department
Tufts University
Medford, MA 02155

Phone: (617) 627-5162
FAX:   (617) 627-3058
Email:pwong@tufts.edu

>Why twin turbocharging? Saying twin turbo sounds cool, >but why not just a single
turbo?

The choice for twin-turbos was more of a personal thing, the idea was just really
cool to me.

>Your engine compartment is much tighter than mine, so >going twin would be a lot
tougher.

Right now I'm in the process of measuring my engine bay.  There seems to be a lot
of room in the front of the bay, especially so in the corners.  Any suggestions on
measurements.  I'm going to be getting some info from Garret, Turbonetics, and maybe
a few others.  Hopefully they will include the dimensions of the turbos.  I've seen
a few Callaway Corvettes and wondered about their twin-intercoolers; I think this
is what you were talking about in your web page, but I'm not sure and there are difinite
space limitations here. If this doesn't turn out to be plausible I think an intercooler
could be fit around the radiator(I'm putting on an aftermarket aluminum one.)  I'm
also going to be putting an aftermarket hood on so I might be gaining some extra
space, especially once the stock induction system is dumped.
 
>Having two isn't necessarily better than one,
>especially on a 6 cyl engine; and I personally think >one would be better than two.
To make use of two turbos, more displacement helps since more air is going >through
the motor. Your smaller engine might not have >enough air to drive 2 turbos efficiently.
 

Why would one be better?  I thought that two smaller turbos vs. one larger turbo
would help to eliminate any boost lag I might encounter.  Also, I've considered boring
and stroking my engine, but at this point I'm unsure.  I really wasn't aware that
my engine being a V6 would make a difference.  For awhile I was interested in the
import scene, and I considered an MR2 Turbo, 300ZX, Toyota Supra Turbo or 3000GT
before finding out how much the insurance was.  These cars all employ either a 4-cylinder
or 6-cylinder engine with twin-turbochargers.  Not to mention the Porsche 911 Turbo,
of course the Porsche's on a totally different level.
>
I've go just a couple more questions.  Since I'm going to be increasing the power
output of my it wouldn't be pointless to drop in a 6spd transmission would it.  Right
now I have a Borg-Warner T5 manual transmission, and I want to switch in a Borg Warner
T56.  I like 6spds alot, but if there is no point to it, why should I bother.  I
have also considered all-wheel drive.  I think AWD is awesome, but have not recieved
any favorable responses to the idea.  I realize that there would be alot of custom
fabrication or adaptation necessary, but that's what it's all about isn't it.  So
far the only responses I have had were that a Blazer-type 4WD would be possible,
but I was more interested in an Eclipse or 3000GT type AWD system.  Do you think
this would be possible.  I do, but I thought you might have heard something to the
contrary.>--
Joel Atteberry
zr28@mailexcite.com

I was working for a place just outside of L.A. County Raceway called R&E
Racing. They specialize in turbocharging.

-Run 8.5:1 compression to allow for maximum boost on the available gas.
This also supports a decent cam profile unlike lower static compression
ratios.

-Over 20 psi boost on small blocks starts to lift the heads off the
block when using stock diameter head bolts so convert your block to 1/2"
head studs. The limitation point for the boost levels is the modulus of
elasticity of steel and the fact that all steel, no matter what it's
ultimate yield strength is, stretches the same amount under the same
load. Larger head studs will stretch less than smaller ones due to the
increase in area. A 355 I built with larger head studs was running 40
psi boost on alchol and building over 950 hp. This motor was only built
to LT-1 specs and lived for several years until the main webbing gave
out. The stock pink rods and steel crank were in great shape until the
block went away.

-At 20 to 25 psi boost the standard Fel-Pro head gaskets give out
necessitating the O-ringing of the block. Their new lock wire head
gaskets that the Grand National guys are running have been holding up to
more than 35 psi boost. I would give them a try since they are just a
captive
O-ring in a composite gasket.

If you run 25 psi boost, lower your compression to 8.5:1, and install
1/2" head studs your 305 should produce over 800 hp and the same amount
of torque. This will destroy most any manual transmission short of a
planetary type if you hook up. I blew an M-22 apart in top gear at the
end of the quarter mile just tryuing to push the car not at launch like
expected. I still have the scar on my knee from the shifter handle
impact.

I would suggest you look into a Jerico or another Winston Cup type
transmission that sees high rpm and high hp and lives. You might even
consider a Lenco if you don't mind losing your console. A trans like a
TKO or a T56 might live for a while but the first time you pushed it for
a mile or so an the top end it would grenade.

Just some more things to think about.

Mike

Anyways, I'm very interested in seeing how your exhaust
system design works.  That seems to be (mechanically) the
most difficult part, as you will also have to figure out how
to run tubing back from the turbocharger.  (If you are running
a 4 to 1 header foward and higher (similar to an inverted
Ultima Sport header) you will be losiing most of your clearance
on the top section, and have little room to run an exhaust pipe,
especially if you're going to use a large system (which i'd
think is nearly mandatory with the backpressure created
by suboptimal headers, and the number of bends you'll
have to make to clear the engine underneath without
compromising ground clearance)

I'm looking at buying an 92 LT1 corvette for a similar project,
which has similar, if not worse, clearance problems.  (I'm thinking
of going with the corvette for the independent rear, and the 300
pounds weight savings)

Also, have you relocated your battery?  that will cause you to save
a HUGE ammount of space (the battery frame is pretty big too)

    ksh

I am dying to know why you chose to go w/ a twin turbo set up rather than
a super charger...is it just b/c it has never been done before?

Later,
Naveed

I've been following your Twin Turbo project quite a while now and think it's
a nice way to go. Extra power (=fuel consumption) when needed and not when
you don't need it. But I do have a question for you. I've never read about
you putting a closed loop dumpvalve on your turbo's. Are you planning to go
for it or not ? I know that it makes a lot of difference, especially in an
manual transmission car.

Hope to hear from you and good luck with the project.

L8er,
marc@vdvossen.cistron.nl

> Definately let us know! What parts is he using?

A very big core. If you want to see the test fit of the corego to >>
http://users.dwx.com/~scottm/intercooler/intercooler.html
It will be powder coated on the finished product. But you can get a good
Idea on this core.
He is using the same core on the Buick GN's and it's good to 9's.

> WHere is the IC mounted?

In front of the rad. With all Mandrel bent pipes. New High flow fan,hardware
and a new air scoop.

> I'm mounting mine in front of the radiator, and redesigning the ducting
> a little to get the most air...
>
> I'm designing an IC setup for the twin turbos, which I'm sure I could
> modify and sell (once bugs are worked out) for the Vortech and Paxton
> third gens. I haven't checked into to prices, but it should definately
> be cheaper than the Vortech aftercooler. Would you (boosted) guys like
> me to do something like this? I'd like to know if there is interest out
> there...

 Everything is now complete on this unit. It will go into production very
soon.
It's on the way to my house as we speak.
I'm shooting for 130mph this year.

>Definately let us know! What parts is he using? WHere is the IC mounted?
>I'm mounting mine in front of the radiator, and redesigning the ducting
>a little to get the most air...

The intercooler is mounted in front of the radiator. There is plenty of
room once the OEM ducting is removed. Air will be directed to the intercooler with a
scoop in production models. One of the fans is replaced with a deep-load high
flow unit. The new air scoops for the TTAs will be molded from fiberglass.

>I'm designing an IC setup for the twin turbos, which I'm sure I could
>modify and sell (once bugs are worked out) for the Vortech and Paxton
>third gens. I haven't checked into to prices, but it should definately
>be cheaper than the Vortech aftercooler. Would you (boosted) guys like
>me to do something like this? I'd like to know if there is interest out
>there...

We will shortly have these available for the fourth gens and we are installing
the TTA intercooler onto a third-gen with a Vortech in the near future.
The fourth-gen intercoolers will be available shortly through Modern Muscle
for both Paxton and Vortech powered fourth gens. If anybody in the Chicago
area with a Paxton/Vortech powered third-gen is interested in trying a unit,
e-mail me directly at tony@chargedair.com.
 
 Tony DeQuick --- mailto:tonyd@chargedair.com
 http://www.chargedair.com/

Keep up the good work.  I'll be interested to see how the project
develops.

Later,
Mark
gta91@delanet.com

Andris:
Not only am I interested in your car for a feature, but I am also
fascinated by the prospect of a turbocharged small block.

I would love to get any details you are willing to pass on to me, and as
soon as you think the car is ready, it's in! Hot damn, and you're
getting school credit for this!!

BTW I do live in New England.  I go to school at UMass Lowell, and live
in Andover.

In addition to you, do you know of any good sources for this kind of
information (referring to turbos)?

Drive fast, drive free...
Phil

       Hey thanks again for he quick reply on the CFM stuff.  I stopped at
your page and saw you were going to convert to a MAP computer.  I have a
couple laying around.  If you don't have one, I could send you a 7730
computer.  I really appreciate the help.  I have spoke to you on a couple
other occasions.  I am building my own EFI for a 65 Malibu and 71 Duster.
Not that it is that relevant.  Anyways,  I was curious to what resources you
used to calculate your IC size.  You recommended the Max Boost book to me,
which I bought.  The IC section was the only area that I had trouble
understanding (read totally lost).  But I will need to this out, so what do
you recommend?

Paul Tholey